Although
Brac does not possess like other Mediterranean regions, some monumental
cultural objects, this island has, nevertheless, its settlements which are
on their own, of specific monumental value, Through them, Brac has achieved
modest but sincere and valuable, although miniature, town-planning solutions
which are conditioned by the highely developed land configuration, historical
events and climate conditions. Selca is an outstanding
example of such a successful achievement. There the inherited Mediterranean
architectural patterns almost reach the high level of the town life. Selca
is a link and a bridge in the transformation of a Mediterranean village
into town. All the houses serve their specific purposes, with clear level
surfaces, free from decorative excess, with tidy yards, with gardens of
a high horticultural standard. All these created the basic element of the
local atmosphere in which one stays with pleasure.
Situated on the gentle slope of the hill Plisi, Selca does not break its
harmony with nature, which gave it the building material and decided its
final form. It is situated there as if according to some ancient Mediterranean
custom, at moderate height halfway between the sea and the plateaus in the
backround. They appear as if caught in the middle by the blueness of the
sea, by the bluish peaks of the remote Biokovo, and the bright blue sky.
The reflections of white stones upon all this blueness! Up there on Plisa,
Selca seems to enjoy the sea more than her people would where they to live
from it.
Selca is in love with stone. Everything is from stone to which the diligent
hand of Selca’s stone masons knew how to give the site and form, sometimes
giving in to asphalt patches and the unsuitable versatility of semichrome
marble. There we find the stone doorways, staircases, terraces, balconies,
with decorative stonebalustrades. The paths and yards are covered with gravel
and stone slabs. Of stone are the gutter-pipes under the eaves, the sinks
in the kitchens, the table surfaces, the vases, of stone are the seats in
the squares and near the yard-walls the graves and the childrens toys-everything
is made of stone. Stone was chosen not only because of its abundance here
but also because it is durable. Hardly ever is it destroyed by bad weather,
it has protected the ancient inherited buildings up to the present day.
The Selcans have grown side by side with stone from the time when as cattle-breeders,
they dug in it ponds for their cattle, when as farmers, they sorted out
stone in the terraced fields in order to cultivate wines, olives and sour
cherries: all back to the times when the Stambuks emigrated from Bohemia
and developed here the stone-masonry which was and remained the most profitable
profession for the Selcans.
Today in Selca’s harbour of Radonja, there are more than 150 workers employed
on the modern machines that produce stone blocks and marble slabs of good
quality, which they bring from the neighboring quarries. Among other things,
this stone was used in the building of the United Nations Palace in New
York. If we are to accept the statement that the stone gives to the irregularly
built villages on the Mediterranean coasts the appearance of little towns,
than we should point to Selca as the most prominent example. That it is
not due to the lack of wood as a building material, is confirmed by the
neighboring regional names Zagvozd (suma-wood), Smrcevvik, Grabovik and
some others, all suggested by wood.
Although burnt down in the Second World War by the invaders (in 1943), Selca
remained faithful to its traditional architecture. Love for the new was
not conditioned by neglect of the beautiful in the old.
Tourism will inevitably knock on its door, because the evenings are fresh
here and the nights more pleasant than those on the coast and the view towards
the sea more beautiful from these slopes.
It is irresistibly attractive and not far to reach.
History. Selca is mentioned in the register of Povlja from 1184 (1250).
At that time it could only consist of shepherds dwellings which were deserted
afterwards, similiar to many other drywall settlements. Various infectious
diseases wiped out many of the original villages in Selca’s inland.
Selca grew and developed partly from the original old inhabitants coming
from Podgracisce (q.v. Gornji Humac), and partly from the newcomers coming
during the Venetian-Turkish wars in the 12th century and later.
In 1614 the priest N. Simunovic records how, at the eastern end of Brac,
there are some thirty scattered houses on the pastures and only Selca has
eight shepherds’ houses. That year, a Margareta Scepanovic, who lived in
the wood in the place Selca 7-8 miles away from D. Humac was recorded.
In 1633, a church Gospa na Selcih (Our Lady of Selca), founded by D.G. Simone
together with the inhabitants of Radonja, is noted. Selca is also noted
in 1645 in connection with the church which some call Mad(onn)a na Selcih
and others B.B de Radovgna Obviously enough, the very name of the settlement
was neither established nor generally accepted. So that in 1668, the bishop
Andreis records that Selca and Lokanjac(a part of Selca today) were under
the authority of the parish of Gornji Humac.
Only when Selca passed to stone-masonry, did it experience a sudden and
rapid development. In 1678 it had as many as 124 inhabitants and a century
later, 400. Such a growth was fostered by constant immigration and the development
of stone-masonry. In 1720 Selca came to be a curacy and in 1815, a separate
parish. The real blossoming in its economic and cultural life took place
at the end of the 19th century. In 1888 the Selcans founded the society
Hrvatski sastanak (The Croatian Meeting), under the patronage of Bishop
J. Strossmayer. This society had a very important role in the nourishing
of the native language and literature. After the Secong World War the society
was called Jedinstvo (The Unity), and it was restored under the patronage
of V. Nazor. The library of Selca was the best eqipped on the island. There
lived for a long time, serving as doctor, the prominent Slovak writer Martin
Kukucin-Bencur (1844-1911), who drew the plots for his stories from the
patriarichal life of the Brac peasants. His novel Kuca na Proplankus (The
House of Glade) refers to Selca where we still find the shabbey house which,
supposedly, Bencur described. At the beginning of the 20th century Selca’s
students from Prag and Graz, brought the panslavistic ideas here, to edge
of the Slav world, which was for centuries suppressed and alienated. This
is why Selca was the first place in the world to erect, in the park, the
monument to Lav. N. Tolstoy (1828-1910) in 1911, a year after his death,
at the time, when in his native Jasna Poljana, this idea was only being
considered. Already in 1938, Selca was the first village in Croatia to erect
a monument in their square to the peasant leader and prominent politician
Stjepan Radic whose bust was sculptured by the then young Croatian scilptor
Anton Augustincic (1900-).
Name. In the surroundings of Selca, almost all the regional names are of
Croatian origin, but many of them bear old, lost meanings like the hamlets
Zagvozd (wood), Dunaj (a name for water, the well), Gradac (fort, stronghold),
Nakal (the ditch). There we also find the hamlet Sela (The Villages) which
belong to Selca (although selca expresses something less than sela). Selca
in its original form denoted a small estate and therefore its traces were
often lost and the name changed. It is seen best in the name of the church.
The first record of it it Stimorice, which is a Croatized form of the Latin
sancta Maria. This language data could direct us to think that in ancient
times here was the shrine of St. Maria, which was later on in 1645 restored
and called Madonna na Selcih or B.B. de Redovgna. In view of the proved
existence of a cult, the preservation of the sacred place; on could suppose
that in Selca, probably on the site of the old parish church, there was
a little wooden church, the nucleus of the present settlement.
Monuments. In the neighborhood there are several exceptionally valuable
little Early Croatian churches from the pre-Romanesque period, the roots
of which reach as far back in history as the 10th century. These small stony
places of worship are raised on the more prominent places on the southern
side of the road to Gornji Humac. Some are erected next to the prehistoric
cairns from which they borrow stone. They follow the cult of worshipping
the heights, known from ancient Slav mythology and they continue to pay
homage to the sacred places of the primeval and unidentified cultures on
the island.
These sacrificial posts with the dwellings and graves round them are the
first beginnings of medieval architecture after the Croats had settled on
the island. They came as the result of the synthesis of the Croatian soul
with the Roman architectureal heritage on the island.
Saint Nicholas, set between Selca and Sumartin with a beautiful view (1400,
above sea level) to the east coast of Brac, St. Cosimus and Damianus on
the high Smrecevik (449m above sea level), St. Thomas on the same hill,
to the west of Selca and St. Dominica on Gradac dominate from above the
whole southeast part of the island. These are all Saints of the Christian
East which the Croats had already chosen when they first embraced the Christian
faith. Their temples are of small proportions so that they could easily
be covered with the barrel-vault, over which is the stone-slab roof. On
the top of this, St. Nicholas has a dome like some other little Early Croatian
churches. The walls of the little churches are decorated with arcades which
give the impression of monumentality.
The Croats, unused to stone in building, used to fasten the roughly cut
stone with the lot of plaster. These little churches together with the one
on Gradac, were several times described and evaluated. It is worth while
seeing these ancient monuments of Croatian religious architecture not only
because they are of such rare and exceptional forms, but also because of
these prominent places on which they stand. They lead the imagination into
the remote, fascinating world of Slav mythology and primeval Christianity
on the island, and it leads the eyes towards the magnificent landscape composed
of vast areas of Karst and the distant sea.
Appearing as a foreign body in Selca’s square, we find the parish church
dedicated to the Slav apostles Ciril and Metod. The building started in
1919 based on the plans of the Austrian architect Schlauf. Apart from the
beauty of the clean, level surfaces and the purity of contours that surround
that square he succeeded in uniting in the styles of the Early Christian
basilicas and the Romanesque and Gothic churches. And thus it broke with
tradition, spoiling its harmony with the environment and genuine feeling
for the mystery of stone.
In the church we find the bronze statue of the Heart of Jesus which was
in 1956 presented to the church by our great sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. It
is interesting to notice that the statue was cast out of the guns shells,
left over in profusion after the Second World War, because the German forts
were here for long very strong and unconquerable. The statue thus built
was particularly dear to the Master, because, as he wrote, from the murderous
grenades meant for the destruction of men, he created a stature with a heart
to symbolize love and peace.